Save-A-Trip Kit: Tool Time

It's time we added some more items to your Save-A-Trip kit. Vicky and I pack some very basic tools with us on every trip, and this has paid off time and again. Here are the travel tools that we've found to be most useful. They take up almost no space at all but still manage to cover nearly every need that's come up while travelling. Most can be bought at your local dollar store if you want to avoid the big brand name versions and save a bunch of money.

What they're packin'

Let's go through them and see what we've got. First is the ubiquitous "Multi-Tool". You'll find a link to the best known version here, but mine was only a buck and does the job. It features pliers (I prefer the more useful "needle nose" variety) wrenches, knife, saw, ruler, all manner of screwdriver attachments, bottle opener, and an old-style can-opener. (This last item is a must-have, so look for that on the version you choose). I add a sturdy pair of tweezers and a very fine jeweler's type screwdriver for completeness.

Next is the "Swiss-Card" tool kit. (OK, this one is the real deal, but inexpensive knockoffs are readily available). It covers a range of very fine tools like delicate tweezers and scissors, a pin for removing slivers, a file, a toothpick, and even a very tiny ballpoint pen. It fits easily inside a wallet and is about the size of a fat credit card.

Then we have our Sommelier-style corkscrew (with bottle opener, and cap cutter). I know this might be overkill, and there are likely smaller options, but we open LOTS of wine, so the smooth and easy operation of this type of corkscrew is worth it, and it was also only a buck.

Lastly (and perhaps another little extravagance) is my beloved "Pocket Ulu" knife. (If you visit Alaska and leave without an Ulu knife of some kind, you did it wrong). It's small enough for fine cutting jobs, yet extremely sturdy, and strong enough for very heavy cutting jobs. I've even used it as a steak knife, or to slice some hard cheese in the hotel room to go with all that wine we opened earlier with our Sommelier corkscrew.

How they pack

Like all the other save-a-trip items we've covered so far, the range of potential uses for these tools far exceeds those they were originally intended for, and is limited only by your imagination and immediate needs. More importantly, they bear the precious gift of time, by allowing you to solve a travel problem quickly and without unduly cutting into your vacation experience.

Remember: "Good trips happen before you leave."


Fox & Vicky

Why Do My Fireworks Pictures Look So Crappy?

If you've ever been at a major fireworks display, perhaps on the 4th of July, or any night at Disneyland, you've probably been surrounded by hopeful tourists snapping away with their cameras. Many might even have the flash turned on. (It's dark right? So I need the flash...right? Ummm...wrong). These people are all doomed to fail in their efforts to capture pictures of fireworks that will do them any kind of justice, and they'll usually end up with something that looks like this:

Not What You Were Hoping For

Part of this is a failure to understand just why fireworks look so great in person, but so lousy in point-and-shoot vacation snapshots. The rest is caused by a lack of attention to the "Two T's" of fireworks photography: Time and Tripod. With just a little attention to the details, you can expect to get something more like this:

That's more like it!

So what's the trick? At any given moment during a display, there may be several different fireworks exploding overhead, and those may also be in different phases of their explosion, some just started, some fully formed, and others fading out at the end of their few seconds of sparkling life.The important words here to the budding fireworks photographer are "few seconds".

A typical modern digital camera on its "automatic setting" might have a shutter speed of around 1/8th of a second when trying to shoot fireworks photos. That means that only what is happening during that 1/8th of a second is actually recorded in the photograph. So what you end up with is a disappointing few points of light, or a fuzzy white smudge, and never the sky filled with color that you seem be seeing as you watch. However, if the camera is set to keep the shutter open for 5, or 15, or even 60 seconds, then everything that happens during that time is recorded in the photo. A great deal happens in 15 seconds during a well timed professional fireworks display, and not surprisingly, a photo that records all of it in a single image can be pretty impressive. (The photo above was taken using a 6 second exposure).

As we wrote in an earlier post, it's in a situation like this that knowing some of the basic principles of photography really helps out. While it's difficult to give any specific instructions because of the huge variety of cameras out there, there are certainly a few general guidelines that will apply to most. If your camera has a "manual" setting, you'll want to use that, as it will give you complete control over the features that will ensure a great series of fireworks photos. If not, many cameras have a "fireworks" setting that will automatically set a slow shutter speed of several seconds, which is not a perfect solution but better than nothing.

Since we need to keep the shutter open for many seconds, we're going to need a tripod, either a real one or a makeshift tripod. (Sorry, there's just no getting around it). It's simply impossible to hand-hold the camera steadily enough for any shutter speed longer than about 1/4th of a second. The good news is that there are many practical options to solve this problem. There are traditional tripods that are extremely small and light, some even small enough to fit inside a backpack with ease.

Only 15 Inches Long & 24 Ounces In Weight

But these will still open up to almost the same size as a full-on "pro" tripod:

But perhaps more importantly, there is a range of tiny travel tripods that can be pressed into service by placing them on the ground, or on top of a nearby object like a trash bin or a fence post, and some that even have bendy, gripper legs, that can be wrapped around a handy pole or traffic sign. Vicky and I carry two of the little ones whenever we travel. (My favorite is the tiny, light, and very sturdy Q-Pod seen below on the right). In a pinch, the camera can simply be propped up on any acceptable surface and rested on something like a folded up jacket to steady and support it. Anything will do, as long as the camera doesn't move while the shutter is open to take a photo.

Tiny Travel Tripods (folded)

Open Q-Pod - Gives BIG performance

OK, the hard part is over. Now all we have to do is fine tune the amount of light that gets into the camera during the exposure. There are several ways to do this. With a long exposure time of this sort, we need to keep the ISO setting low. An ISO of 100 or 200 will do fine in most cases. (All cameras will allow you to control this). It's also wise to set your aperture as small as possible as well. (You might need a manual setting for this one). Both these things help to prevent your photo from being overexposed due to the very slow shutter speeds. An overexposed fireworks photo will rob the picture of its color, and everything might appear white. Most important by far though is setting the length of the time for the shutter to stay open. This depends a great deal on how "vigorous" the display is. A slow display may need 60 seconds, while a very rapid fire one may need only 3 or 4. The 4th Of July photo (below) needed a 60 second exposure because the firing rate of the show was very slow paced, while the faster paced Disneyland display (2nd photo below) took only 4 seconds to capture).

Slow Show! What you see recorded in this photo took 60 seconds to happen

Fast Show! This photo took only 4 seconds to capture.

This is where digital photography really pays off, since you can see the results of each attempt instantly, and then adjust the settings before the next one.

Lastly, we have to be sure not to move the camera at all when we release the shutter. This means (as with any tripod photography) that we can't actually push the shutter release button manually like we usually do. We'll either need to have a wireless shutter release, or simply use the timer that's already built into most cameras. The timer option is the easiest and least expensive, and all you'll need to do is choose the "2 second" option so that the shutter releases 2 seconds AFTER you push the button. This prevents the inevitable jiggle caused by touching the camera from being recorded as fuzziness on the final image.

Now that you're armed with the basics, you can prepare for your next night of fireworks and come home with pictures that do the show justice. Just take a little time to learn the basic controls on your camera, grab your tripod, and have fun!

Fox & Vicky