Jewels

Okay, I admit it. I'm too busy either preparing to travel, travelling, or recovering from travel, to actually write about travel. That is irony...right? In fact, the date on the post prior to this one has been taunting me so aggressively regarding my failings, that I feel compelled to get something up here just to make it stop. (I would just hate to end up being one of those writers that "think" about writing a great deal, but never actually writes). Now that my confession is out of the way, I will regale you all with another post regarding our time "Down South" which indeed had sufficient effect on our lives to warrant another visit...

Enjoy!


I’m walking along one of the roads that run parallel to the waterfront, but it’s not one of the roads a tourist would be likely to see. There are no jewelry stores and no T-shirt shops. No one is asking me to come inside because they “have the best junk,” or “speak broken English perfectly.” No enormous white ships can be seen sitting offshore like office buildings lying on their sides. None of the things twenty thousand cruise passengers a day might remember about this island are on this street, but it does have a few attractions of its own. I pass a bougainvillea, pouring over a mission style wall like a waterfall, exploding with red flowers. The color is so intense in the setting sunlight that it doesn’t even seem real. On my left now is a bright orange house I never tire of seeing. The locals are fearless about their use of color in decorating, with vibrant yellows, blues, and reds everywhere. My neighborhood back home was brown and gray. The sidewalk under my feet is mostly cracked concrete, but in the center of every rectangular section is a small, bright-blue square of tile, set like a jewel. Jewels of a different kind for those of us that pass this way. 

Orchid Growing Wild In Our Back Garden - Cozumel, Mexico

Yin and yang, good and bad: each needs the other. I enjoy the frequent blasts of beauty I see while walking here all the more, because ugliness is not that rare either. Cozumel is never neutral, and never dull. One minute I might pass a house or restaurant and exclaim, “Oh my god! What is that smell?” as the intoxicating aroma of a delicious meal being prepared escapes into the air. The next, while passing a vacant lot, might produce the same exclamation -- but for a different reason entirely -- as I smell something dead and decaying amongst the garbage and empty beer bottles. It’s a feast for the senses here, but good or bad, everything is set to maximum. When I returned home for a visit last summer, I was struck by how ordinary everything seemed. There were identical houses with identical lawns, no highs and lows, no wild oscillation in the range of sights and smells. Beauty isn’t as valuable without anything to compare it to.

Mayan Ruins - San Gervasio Site - Cozumel, Mexico

I walk past a "municipal jungle," my name for the empty lots dotting the town. Green rectangles of unrestrained nature, they are usually bordered on four sides by man's handiwork. In these places nature makes a stand, and fights back with a ferocity that can only be seen in the tropics. I smile at the notion that the whole island looked like this once, and would look like it again if it were not held at bay every single day. Sky-blue flowers, the size and shape of a petunia are everywhere, giving the jungle the look of an out of control garden. A young egret stands near one border of this wild spot like a garden ornament: slim, graceful, and white. But it’s real, and a reminder that nature is patiently waiting to take over if it gets the chance. I often hear we need to save the planet, but I think the planet will do just fine by itself if one day we aren’t around to interfere; it’s we that need to be saved from ourselves. 

Iguana - So common that they're the "gophers" of Cozumel, Mexico

I heard a parable once about an old man standing near the gates of an ancient walled city. A family approached carrying all their belongings in a wagon. The father spoke to the old man, telling him they were looking for a new place to live, and asking him what he thought of this city. The old man asked, “What was the place you came from like?” The father answered, “It was a terrible place, dirty, ugly, and full of liars and thieves. No one was kind and everyone looked out only for himself.” The old man replied, “You won’t like it here then, because this city is just like that.” With this, the family moved on. Soon another family approached and asked the same question of the old man, as they too were looking for a new place to live. Again, the old man asked, “What was the place you came from like?” They answered, “It was a wonderful place, clean and beautiful, full of loving and kind people that were always ready to lend a helping hand.” The old man said, “Then you will like it here, because this city is just like that.” Well Cozumel is just like that too, and like any other place, it is exactly what you make of it.

Performers In The Annual Carnival Parade - Cozumel, Mexico

The sun has plunged toward the sea now, seeming to set faster here somehow. The sky to the west is on fire with yellow and orange and red. The clouds look like something from an oil painting, illuminated from within as if they are the source of this light and color. I’m on my way to a local nightspot. It’s not some noisy bar full of twenty-somethings, swilling beer and flashing their tattoos and body piercing. It’s a quiet oasis of cosmopolitan flair called Ambar, another example of the surprising range of this place. I walk through the lounge; past eclectic art and machine turned tabletops, thinking this place would be at home in the most hip of districts in any metropolis. I head through the back door into a garden seating area, where jazz plays softly from speakers hidden in the plants. I love the way the architecture in Mexico blurs the distinction between indoors and out. Vicky is waiting for me at one of the tables, with two ice-cold bottles of dark beer at the ready. The moon is full, or nearly so, and those areas not lit by the garden lights are bathed in bright blue moonlight. I shake my head, thinking that back home the snow is two feet deep and it’s thirty degrees below zero. We clink our bottles together, making a toast, and drink deeply; it’s hot out tonight. 

The Harbor At Christmas - Cozumel, Mexico

Travelers to places like this probably go home thinking they have a notion of what it’s really like here. They tell their friends and family they have been to Cozumel. Sadly though, they have likely seen only a sanitized and carefully prepared set, designed to empty as much cash from their wallets as possible. Avenida Rafael Melgar, the main shopping street along the waterfront, is all of Cozumel most people will ever see. They are warned not to wander onto the dangerous back streets, and to be wary of the local eating establishments. Patent nonsense, as this is the safest place I have ever been, and I’d rather trust local restaurants (that feed their friends and families day after day) than tourist joints that serve you once and never see you again. Make the effort to break free of convention and see the real Cozumel, because you won’t find it on Melgar. Sure, you might see some garbage on the streets, or smell something bad, but you might see some unexpected beauty too.

Sunset From The Ventanas Al Mar (Windows To The Sea) Eco-Hotel - East Coast - Cozumel, Mexico

Vicky and I are walking home now. The streets are quiet but for the occasional taxi driving by. They still flash their headlights in case we want a ride. I guess we’ll always look like tourists no matter how long we live here. Overhead, the moon is bright and clear, and seems impossibly large. Closer to home, we are passing by another municipal jungle when something catches my eye. We stop to look more closely, and within the densely packed leaves and vines is a natural marvel. Hundreds of tiny flickering yellow lights are moving this way and that throughout the plants. They are fireflies, and they look like Christmas tree lights that have been freed, as if by magic, to float away from their wires and do as they please. I stand and stare in wonder. It’s dark, and though I’m sure this jungle is just as full of trash as all the rest, it’s the fireflies I will remember. Each one of us lives in a world of our own making, given form by the power of our thoughts and perceptions. We can see the beer bottles and garbage, or we can see the flowers, birds, and fireflies: the jewels of a different kind. Each one of us is in charge of how we feel. 

I feel lucky.


Fox & Vicky

Resurrection

If you should find yourself in Calgary, Alberta, Canada, and you're looking for a truly worthwhile dining experience, then make your way to The Block Kitchen & Lounge in the city's Northwest. The Block occupies the space that was home to Rembrandt's Pub & Grill for 27 years or so. The less said about that place the better, but know that it was very tired and needed to be put to rest. The new venue is fresh, inviting, and decorated with a deft touch that feels both casual and elegant at the same time.

Inviting Environment

With luck, you'll run into Kai Salimäki, your energetic and outgoing restaurateur, and what appears to be the driving force behind this outstanding operation. This is not Kai's first rodeo, and it shows. I really didn't want to write this post as a review at all, and instead wanted to use this new restaurant in a rapidly redeveloping neighborhood as a springboard for a treatise on urban rebirth. Travellers rarely see this process in action, but often benefit from it. Unfortunately for me as a writer, Kai kept setting food of such distinction in front of us that I've been robbed of my first plan, and have now been forced to expound on the food. Damn him!

Coolest Light Bulbs EVER - But I Digress...

The older you get, the harder it is to be surprised. There is no greater honor that can be bestowed upon a chef than to say that he or she surprised you. To taste a forkful of something and not have a ready-made dusty pigeonhole of past taste memories to file it in, is as good as it gets. The Lobster Ravioli for instance needed a shiny new spot on the shelf of food experiences in my mind. It featured a subtle and delicate combination of flavors that let the easily overpowered taste of lobster hold the spotlight.

Lobster Ravioli - Wow, that's...NEW!

Vicky had the Steak Sandwich, which held down the fort at the opposite end of the taste spectrum with a powerhouse explosion of "umami". (For those of you not glued to the Food Network all day, umami is a word borrowed from Japanese -- roughly translated as "deliciousness" -- and is the fifth taste. It's often described as savory, meaty, and satisfying). Once again, neither Vicky nor I had ever tasted anything quite like it. Two for two.

A Surprising Steak Sandwich

Then came the Calamari (expertly cooked, and the pickled red onion was a well chosen counterpoint). We rank it in the top three we've ever had, and that number includes the Calamari at the incomparable Sorrisi in Cozumel, Mexico. Trust us, this is high praise.

Calamari - Crunchy Outside, Tender Inside

We also sampled the Deep Fried Pickle Chips (piping hot, perfectly acidic, and slightly spicy) and on an earlier visit, a Cubano Flatbread Sandwich lunch special (a fiesta of contrasts in texture, temperature, and taste), as well as the Prawn Po' Boy. All hits - no misses.

Fried Dill Pickle Chips

There are plenty of great options for the craft beer fan and we thoroughly enjoyed the St Ambroise Oatmeal Stout, and the heavily hopped Wild Rose IPA, both on tap, as well as the Village Blacksmith in a bottle. You'll find an extensive and varied wine list here as well. While our visits were during quiet times of the day, we found the staff to be happy, pleasant, and clearly invested in making the place a success.

The Wine Selection

While what's taken Rembrandt's place is completely different in every way that matters, a single gene was passed onto The Block from it's deceased ancestor. Like Rembrandt's, The Block has VLT's (Video Lottery Terminals, which is Government-Speak in Canada for slot machines). Do NOT let this throw you. We've been there twice, and we still haven't seen them. We have no idea where they are, and we don't care. (Gambling is just a tax levied against people that can't do math anyway).

The real "payoff" here for you and me is that the presence of the VLT's (wherever they are) means that minors are utterly forbidden to be on the premises. Period. So those adults among us that -- for whatever reason -- would prefer to enjoy their dining experience only in the company of other adults, are safe at The Block. (Insert dreamy, contented, sigh of happiness here).

The Menu Of The Moment - Expect Regular Updates

There's real value to be had at The Block, but remember that value doesn't necessarily imply inexpensive. That said, any day that I can put something brand new into my mental collection of taste experiences is a day, and a restaurant tab, well spent.

Fox & Vicky

The Happiest Place On Earth! - IF You Know What You're Doing

My Mom first visited Disneyland when she was 7 months pregnant with me. You know how they say that babies can hear you talking to them, or benefit from hearing music while still in the womb? Well I think that somehow her excitement and wonder at visiting Walt Disney's park back when he was still alive somehow got into my system. Maybe I even heard it all for myself in her belly...and I'm only half joking here. I just LOVE being there, and it's one of our favorite travel destinations for many reasons.

Main Street Station - At The Entrance To Disneyland, Anaheim, California

I'm sorry to admit that I went about it all in the worst possible way when Vicky and I first started to visit "The Park" as a couple. (When you're there, you'll never hear anybody that really knows the ropes say, "We're going to Disneyland today", and instead they'll say, "We're going to The Park", and they say it in capitals). I felt that I already knew all there was to know about Disneyland, since I'd been going there since I was very young. We had family that lived in Anaheim at the time, so going to Disneyland was just a natural for us in the 60's.

The Setting California Sun Bathes The Spires Of Sleeping Beauty's Castle

Our early trips as an adult couple were brief, and I insisted on doing EVERYTHING, and I had to do the really good stuff twice. I was a Disneyland Commando. This drove Vicky crazy, and I often got her up at 5 AM to be at The Park well before opening time so that we could be nearly first in line. Then I marched the poor girl around the place for 14 hours a day like a drill sergeant, often with a detailed "touring plan" in hand that specified the most efficient order in which to do things. This got a lot done in the time available, but it was physically grueling, and we needed a vacation when we got home from our vacation....and Vicky hated my guts.

The Mad Hatter's Tea Party - A Disneyland Staple Since 1955

But if fifty years of repeat visits to The Park have taught me anything, it's that Disneyland is meant to be sipped, not guzzled. If at all possible, the best experiences are to be had with longer visits. Two weeks is what we prefer these days, and given the overwhelming number of entertainment and dining options now available, I could stay even longer.

The Riverboat "Mark Twain"

If you must visit Disneyland on a tight schedule (3 to 5 days) then do yourself a huge favor and buy a copy of Bob Sehlinger's indispensable book, "The Unofficial Guide to Disneyland" before you go. While you might find yourself being a bit of a Disneyland Commando, the author's brilliantly conceived and efficient "touring plans" will give you a real shot at experiencing all the best offerings of the resort, even on a short visit.

The "King Arthur Carrousel" - Perhaps The Finest Still In Existence Today

Don't forget to take your camera. Disneyland is one of the most photographed places in the world, and for good reason. It presents an amazing bounty of great opportunities for both casual and serious photographers to explore their creativity. Having enough time to stop and smell the roses, and then take pictures of them, is perhaps one of the greatest rewards that come with the luxury of longer stays. The experienced visitor will often find themselves absorbed more by the rich detail and subtle beauty of their surroundings, than they are by the admittedly astounding attractions that Disneyland is known for.

R2D2 Rides Shotgun On Your Star Tours Adventure

Even the food at Disneyland is a draw these days, and for those that know the history of The Park, that is a kind of miracle. Up until the last few years, there was very little to recommend eating in Disneyland at all. You were better off at the Denny's on Harbor Blvd. across the street from the main entrance. This was always a great mystery to me; how could Disneyland possibly be so good at everything else, and be so bad at preparing food?

The Beautiful "Court Of Angels" In New Orleans Square - Sadly Now Closed To The Public

Apparently serving mediocre food for half a century or so was their limit, and suddenly, amazingly, gloriously, that all changed. Now there are so many great places to eat that it's nearly impossible to hit them all, even in a two week visit and eating exclusively at Disney restaurants. In fact, the great food offerings are so numerous that they'll need to be explored in detail in future posts.

Castle Reflections

It's been said that, "Walt built Disneyland because he wanted one", and while he may have been beaten to the punch by Knott's Berry Farm, and Santa's Village, Disneyland really defined the final form of the new entertainment venue that came to be known as the theme park. I'm confident that it remains the premiere destination for theme park fans today because it was the only one that Walt ever actually set foot in, and it bears the unmistakable touch of his creative hand.

The World Famous "Jungle Cruise" - Featuring The "Backside Of Water"

Many make the error of thinking that it's somehow a place meant only for children, and that adults just endure it for their kid's sake. But the opposite is really true, and it's much more a playground for adults than children.

Check Your Adulthood At The Door Please

When queried, the 5 to 7 year old set respond that the best part of their trip to Disneyland was the swimming pool at the hotel. Nothing could more clearly illustrate the need to wait until your kids possess both the maturity and the stamina to enjoy The Park for what it really is - a place to cast off the mantle of reality, and revel in the suspension of disbelief. It may well be the greatest example of virtual reality ever conceived, and it's adults that need this place to rediscover the lost art of "play", not children; they haven't lost it yet.

Fox & Vicky

Thursday Night Rodeo & A Little BBQ

Come with us for a visit to the weekly rodeo at the Blue Moon Nightclub near Columbia Falls, Montana. It's almost 7 PM, and the crowd is gathering as they do every Thursday night during the summer. As we park, we see there's already a line to to pay the $10 price of admission. There's an even longer line at the hamburger shack and the beer vendor. Lets grab a couple of tall cans of beer and head over to the bleachers. We'll climb to the top for a good view, and take a seat in the warm, summer evening sun.

An idyllic scene sets the stage for the coming evening.

It's comforting to know that this Western way of life, with a tradition of horsemanship that stretches back well over a hundred years is still alive and well. Out here, nobody has forgotten that real life is all 3D, big screen, and high definition.

8 seconds must seem like a LONG time.

There's just no substitute for a small town rodeo. While it might lack the polish of the big leagues (like you might see at the finals of the Calgary Stampede) at least there's a real chance of getting some dirt kicked on you here, and you won't need any binoculars to see the action.

Horse and rider aren't always adversaries.

This isn't some huge sports stadium where the players are limited to a privileged few on multi-million dollar contracts. The competitors here are paying to compete. (See the difference there?) These men, women, boys, and girls are all here for the same thing; to test their mettle in challenges based on the real world skills that have put food on your table for generations.

Rider: "I'm stayin' on" - Horse: "No you're not"

Now let's crack that ice cold beer and settle in to watch a pageant unfold that hasn't changed to speak of for the better part of a century.

More than 2000 pounds of bull with all four hooves in the air!

We're reminded that both the riders and the animals here are considered to be athletes, and whether we see them perform in an event that places the two in concert, or in combat, it's a beautiful sight.

A pretty Barrel Racer pours it on in a tight turn.

I never cease to marvel at the almost unbelievable bravery demonstrated by the rodeo "clown" (at top right below, and anything but a clown) and we'll see him save more than one life tonight.

Uh-oh...that bull looks pretty pissed off....

The sun is getting low now, and its golden rays are turning the clouds of dust around the riders into halos of smoke and fire. The bulls look as if they've been ridden straight up out of the ground from Hell.

Devil Bull

It's over almost before we know it, and the riders and stock will soon be off to the next town, and the next rodeo, risking their lives again to chase that perfect 8 second ride in the warm, summer sun.

While you're in the neighborhood, don't miss your chance to visit the Back Room of the Nite Owl in Columbia Falls for some of the best BBQ you've ever had. It's probably wise to go for dinner before the rodeo though, since they close at 9 PM. And if you're not keen on waiting in a line that stretches out the door, down the stairs, and into the parking lot, then you'd best show up before 5 PM. Word is out about this place, and it's always jam packed with rib lovers.

Nothin' fancy...the focus is on the food.

The restaurant has a folksy, country-kitchen atmosphere and looks like it's been that way for a long time. The ceiling is studded with playing cards (The Back Room - get it?) bearing the signatures of past patrons.

How'd they get 'em up there?

We suggest that you save time and skip browsing the menu. Just order the "Country Ribs" (Trust us on this one). The ribs are nearly boneless pieces of tender, juicy, slow roasted, pork that almost melt in your mouth. (They cook 800 lbs a day!)

It's best to arrive hungry and Thirsty.

They're served with a sauce that's tasty without being overpowering, and come with all the trimmings: baby red potatoes, cole slaw, baked beans and a big piece of fry bread. You'll find a squeeze bottle of honey on the table to anoint the fry bread to sweet perfection. If you leave the Back Room hungry, it's your fault. You'll likely want a cold beverage to wash it all down, and our suggestion is a jug of Bitter Root Brewery's "Nut Brown Ale". This cola colored, local craft brew has the bold taste that you'll need to stand up to the smoky BBQ. Look for notes of coffee, roasted malts, and chocolate in this flavorful beer that's reminiscent of a Porter.

Fox & Vicky

Here We Go!

Vicky and I just can’t decide how to get our blog rolling. At first we thought that it’s hard to go wrong with humor, so we’d tell the funny story about the time I was detained by security at a Las Vegas casino.

If they say no videotaping, they mean NO videotaping!

But that might make our readers think that the blog would only be about funny anecdotes. Next we thought we could start off with a travel tip, like how you can rescue a day at the beach by fixing a blown-out flip-flop with one of those little plastic tabs that keep a bread bag closed.

We'll tell you how to do this later...

But we didn’t want people to think that our blog was just about travel tips. Then we figured that since everybody loves to eat, we’d tell you about an amazing hole-in-the-wall we found in Montana where people line up out the door for a chance to eat the best barbecue pork I’ve ever had.

BBQ and Beer

But we want this to be more than just a bunch of restaurant reviews. Photography…that’s it! We’ll start with a tip on how to get the most from your camera when you want to capture those amazing fireworks on the Fourth of July.

4th of July from a mountaintop

No…people might think it’s just a blog for camera buffs. Maybe we should start with something about technology. Plenty of readers would love to hear about solving that annoying problem with weak Wi-Fi signals in hotel rooms.

Travel Booster - Wi-Fi's best friend

Wait, I’ve got it…we’ll start with a packing tip. We’ve rescued many a travel day by having some little item like a single use tube of super-glue that can solve a big problem in no time.

It's a super problem solver

No, that’s too specific. How about a photo trip report? Our Alaska pictures would set the tone nicely…

Johns Hopkins Glacier - Glacier Bay, Alaska

…or maybe the Fiji shots would be better.

Matangi Island Sunset, Fiji

We just can’t decide. Maybe we’ll go out for a cold glass of local craft beer and think about it. Now there’s a good first post…we’ll review the micro-brews we tried on our last trip.

Sweet, life-giving, beer

Now we’re getting somewhere. Hey, wait just a minute here. It looks like we’ve already written our first post!

We hope you’ll come along with us for what we promise will be an interesting, funny, and informative look at traveling, eating, and everything that goes with it. We’ll fill you in on the details of the things we’ve only touched on here, and who knows what else? It’s a big world, so we’d better get started…we’ve got plenty to share.

Fox & Vicky